Autumn/Winter 2018 Season Recap
Over the last 6 days Tokyo Amazon Fashion Week has come and gone in a wide variety of runway shows, vibrant street style, flashing cameras everywhere, and of course, complimentary sake & champagne. The shows were ambitious and dazzling, taking us from the halls of Shibuya Hikarie to the iconic Tokyo TV Tower for a indoor grassy runway show.
With all the major cultural and social movements occurring around the world, we watch all the major Fashion Weeks to see how these current issues will play back at us in fashion. Late issues encompassing sexual orientation governmental issues, personality, and inclusivity appear to be nearly antiquated in a place like Tokyo, where self-expression and gender representation have dependably been exceptionally fluid and dynamic. For that reason we watched with much more expectation and energy to see how Japanese designers might surprise and stun the crowds with their unique take on masculinity and femininity. Tokyo Fashion Week is quite different and has always marched to the beat of its own drum.
Without further ado, here’s my complete recap of Amazon Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2018 Season.
Streetwear and casual athleisure are dominate the runway
Many of the highly anticipated shows of the season were streetwear labels, proving that urban is definitely not out. Unisex brand DressedUndressed brought sex appeal and undone tailoring to the runway with their collection ‘I’m Sexy’. Boys and girls walked in cinched, monochromatic button-down shirts and skin-tight pants, sheer light-as-a-feather fabrics, with the occasional pop of colour. Cheeky cutouts gave us glimpses of bare skin. It was subtle and sensual, yet still effortlessly maintained the brand’s genderless ethos.
With a slew of high profile fans like Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Lady Gaga and G-Dragon, Ambush was another eagerly awaited show. With slouchy denim, oversized tailored jackets, lace up sneakers, and lots of layering, it was all grungy references to the ‘90s and wide brim hats. Meanwhile HARE and menswear label MISTERGENTLEMAN both sent models down the runway in preppy, loose silhouettes. At HARE it was cable knit sweaters over turtlenecks, sleeveless puffer jackets, and plaid grandpa robes, whereas MISTERGENTLEMAN showed preppy styles in a range of rainbow bright colours.
A considerable measure of the most exceedingly foreseen shows of the season were streetwear marks, demonstrating that urban is unquestionably not out. Unisex brand DressedUndressed conveyed sex request and fixed fitting to the runway with their gathering ‘I’m Sexy’. Young men and young ladies strolled in clamped, monochromatic conservative shirts and skin-tight jeans, sheer light-as-a-quill textures, with the incidental fly of shading. Brassy patterns gave us looks of exposed skin. It was inconspicuous and erotic, yet still easily kept up the brand’s genderless ethos.
With a huge number of prominent fans like Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Lady Gaga and G-Dragon, Ambush was another excitedly anticipated show. With slouchy denim, larger than usual custom fitted coats, bind up tennis shoes, and bunches of layering, it was all grungy references to the ’90s and wide overflow caps. In the interim HARE and menswear name MISTERGENTLEMAN both sent models down the runway in preppy, free outlines. At HARE it was link weave sweaters over turtlenecks, sleeveless puffer coats, and plaid grandpa robes, while MISTERGENTLEMAN demonstrated preppy styles in a scope of rainbow splendid hues.
Return of the global nomad
A handful of designers made the case for a return to gypsy dressing. The girls at 5-Knot looked like futuristic gypsy girls from the prairie, dressed in midi skirts, floral patterns, boots, and neck scarves. Designers Ena Kizawa and Taketo Nishino of 5-KNOT weren’t afraid to mix colours, prints, fabrics and textures, pulling it all off seamlessly. Hanae Mori manuscrit also played with draping and layering in a range of deep hues and clashing prints. The models sported beautiful floral eyebrows with delicate pink, yellow and white petals.
Avant-garde fashion house Viviano Sue delivered a feast for the eyes in his collection. With shocks of bright colour, silky textures and furry embellishments, models wore blunt structural bobs adorned with marvellous headwear in all colours.
Punk is not dead
Starting with the hair, there were choppy black coifs were in abundance at ENHANCE and Fashion Week newcomer KIDILL, from the mullet-y Joan Jett to the spikey Sid Vicious, there were mohawks, buzz cuts and everything in-between. KIDILL again referenced legendary British punk band The Damned and featured fishnets, chains and embellishments. ENHANCE was moody and dark, with black lips and black boots.
Bright pops of colour and bold graphics
Vibrant shocks of colour and colour blocking could be seen across all the shows. Neon green boots at AKIKOAOKI, graphic jumpers and mustard pants at FREIKNOCK, and structural orange, blue and pink creations at Keisuke Yoshida. MUZE sent models down the runway wearing cool streetwear cheekily adorned with the logo of everyone’s favourite dystopian nutrition bar and energy gel brand, CalorieMate, while Soe’s models wore printed skirts and bomber jackets featuring snippets of the legendary McDonald’s signposting.
Then there was the highly anticipated G.V.G.V. show, held at Tokyo Dome’s roller skate arena, which saw modish models decked out in a blend of ‘70s psychedelia and ‘60s mod. Paisley skirts, black and white checks, polka dot furry jackets, printed sheer tights, and bright lips. Pure flower power.
Autumn/Winter 2018 is all about plaid
Plaid was everywhere. On jackets, pants, dresses, and shoes, in almost every collection. It seems designers wanted to harness the stoic power of the Scottish highlands this season, and pretty soon we will too.
The kimono’s place in contemporary fashion
Amidst an ocean of Western-influenced streetwear and ultra-modern styles, Jotaro Saito again boldly affirmed the kimono’s ongoing relevance at Fashion Week. With every collection Saito breathes new life into traditional Japanese dress in a way that is edgy and modern, without ever losing the historical integrity of the garments. This season was sumptuous and rich, a breath of fresh air.