Tokyo-based label disemBySiiK unveiled its 2025–26 Autumn/Winter collection on April 1 with its first-ever runway show, held inside the intimate underground venue of CIRCUS Tokyo in Shibuya. Led by designers Saeko Ishii and Ikuto Kitamura, the brand turned inward for this season’s theme, titled In My Room—an exploration of small joys found in quiet, familiar spaces.
The collection was inspired by a moment of introspection. As Kitamura and Ishii grappled with the pace of modern life and the sense of being consumed by it, they sought refuge in the solitude of their own rooms. There, they rediscovered overlooked fragments of daily life: a sunbeam across the floor, the comfort of a cluttered chair, the warmth of morning rituals. This personal retreat became the emotional foundation of the season’s designs.
Among the standout pieces was a reimagined version of the brand’s signature “Assemble” series—modular garments that combine multiple items into a single wearable silhouette. This season’s interpretation included a padded jacket layered over a detachable utility vest and overalls cinched with functional, sculptural belts. These hybrid designs offered visual complexity while remaining rooted in practical layering.
Elsewhere, the idea of garments left in disarray—clothes tossed over furniture, entangled on the floor—manifested in pieces with intertwined silhouettes and overlapping materials. One such look paired a nylon anorak with a body suit featuring gathered straps, mimicking the spontaneous form of clothing mid-movement or mid-chaos.
A continuing thread from the previous season was the reinvention of the trench coat. disemBySiiK presented multi-layered coats with zippers allowing wearers to shift from structured to flowing silhouettes. Other interpretations included strapless tops borrowing directly from trench design elements, like gun flaps and front panels, transformed into sculptural, unexpected forms.
Playful touches also appeared in the form of crochet embroidery shaped like the letters found in alphabet pasta, integrated into tailored jackets and trousers. This charming detail—a nod to the designers’ childhood memories of soup at breakfast—offered a soft, nostalgic contrast to the otherwise refined tailoring.
The show’s staging further emphasized the collection’s introspective mood. A wooden frame resembling a minimalist room sat at the center of the venue, with only a single chair inside. Models descended into the space one by one, each guiding the next into the scene in a choreography that suggested intimacy, handover, and retreat. According to the designers, this narrative was meant to reflect the value of emotional space and the quiet strength found in solitude.
Founded in 2019 after the duo graduated from Bunka Fashion College, disemBySiiK has built its name on genderless silhouettes, intricate pattern work, and conceptual storytelling through clothing. The label continues to blur lines between fashion and art, creating garments that are as much about personal experience as they are about visual identity.
Marking their eighth year in operation, this inaugural runway show also represented a milestone for the designers, now in their 30s. Kitamura shared that this felt like the right moment to broaden their mode of expression and hoped their journey from student designers to independent creatives might inspire younger generations in fashion.
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