Akiko Aoki’s (AKIKOAOKI) 2023 Autumn/Winter Collection was presented on March 16, 2023 at the Hikarie Hall in Shibuya, Tokyo.
The key theme of Akiko Aoki’s collection this season was “Maria,” referring to the revered figure of the Virgin Mary. Drawing inspiration from the enduring traditions of Christianity, the collection aimed to capture the essence of Maria’s abstract aspects. This included her nurturing presence, as well as the inevitable acceptance of her fateful role as the “Virgin,” unexpectedly carrying Jesus, which defined her iconic and symbolic status.
Uniform-inspired aesthetics took center stage in the collection, an area in which Akiko Aoki excels. The designs incorporated elements of tailoring, military influences, and sporty undertones. For example, within the realm of tailoring, formal striped suit fabrics were deconstructed and reconstructed into short jackets and dresses, rather than being conventionally crafted into solid pieces. These garments showcased an innovative approach to fashion, with subtle references to historical corsets and a nod to the evolution of clothing.
The deconstruction and reconstruction techniques were prominent throughout the collection, including the use of vintage clothing. Dresses were created by repurposing printed vintage garments, deconstructing them to fit the contours of the body. This juxtaposition fused the elegance of the dresses with a casual and sporty sensibility. As seen in the tailoring aspect, the collection embraced the concept of dismantling formal attire and seamlessly integrating it into everyday wear, resulting in a harmonious blend of sophistication and practicality.
To reflect Maria’s sudden and inevitable acceptance of her role as the Virgin, the collection subtly incorporated elements of restraint within the designs. Examples include flared bondage pants and coats featuring belted restraints on both arms, symbolizing the sense of being bound by duty and destiny.
The color palette revolved primarily around black and gray, evoking a tailored aesthetic, while pops of blue and light pink added touches of vibrancy. Materials also played a crucial role, with lace embellishing the clean lines of simple dresses, vinyl fabrics lending a glossy sheen to long coats, and faux fur textures introducing a variety of tactile elements to match diverse tastes.
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