Satoru Sasaki presented his 2025–26 Autumn/Winter collection for his eponymous label SATORU SASAKI at Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO. Titled “PRIMITIVE FUTURE – 2,” the collection takes inspiration from American abstract painter Mark Rothko, particularly his shift from figurative to abstract work and his emphasis on emotional rather than logical engagement with art. Sasaki applies these themes to fashion, aiming to explore how emotion and instinct can shape design in contrast to the data-driven approaches often seen in contemporary creative industries.
The collection featured gradient color palettes that reference Rothko’s color field paintings, combining vivid hues—such as red, yellow, and blue—with neutral tones. Knitted garments were constructed using looped yarn in multiple thread thicknesses to create visual texture, while other pieces incorporated painterly effects through needle punch techniques. A recurring motif throughout the show was the idea of “wearing a painting,” seen in items like sculptural bags, layered knitwear, and tops detailed with leather elements resembling artist palettes.
Looks included asymmetrical dresses with sharp cutouts, cropped tops, and garments that exposed skin in strategic ways. Sasaki also incorporated shaggy textures, two-tone belts, and tactile fabrics that contributed to the collection’s focus on sensory experience. The lineup included both menswear and womenswear, presented with styling intended to move beyond conventional gender distinctions.
Sasaki, who received the 10th Tokyo Fashion Award, founded his brand in 2020 with a concept of designing for “women admired by men.” More recently, the brand has expanded into menswear. While past collections leaned into minimalism, this season introduced more visually expressive elements, such as embroidered set-ups, layered textures, and accessories that contrasted with the more pared-back silhouettes.
The show was held on March 20, 2025, at the Toda Building in Kyobashi, Tokyo.
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